暨南学报(哲学社会科学版)

作者：易淑琼

单位：文学博士,暨南大学图书馆副研究员。

关键词：中餐牌,粤籍华人文学,中餐叙事,文化意涵

本文将作为历史文本的美国中餐牌文献与粤籍华人自传体文学文本中的中餐叙事相比照,发现二者构成了相当有意味的互文性。就文化意涵而言,前者呈现出明显的“杂碎化”性质,而后者文学叙事中的中餐则是“真正的”广东菜,呈现出原乡的地道性;中餐牌文献文本着意于华人文化身份的外部显性呈现,文学文本中餐叙事则反映出华裔美国人身份的内部隐性建构。作为美国社会“异己”的中餐,两类文本中无论是归化其“异质性”或是张扬其“异质性”,均具有自我东方化成分,同时也都有对美国社会关于中餐和华裔的刻板印象的抵抗。起源于粤菜的美国中餐对原乡正宗性的守持、变异及至“杂碎化”美式中餐的流行,揭示出族裔身份建构、文化调适及文化同化的有趣及复杂。"/>template{display:none;}.mag-rich-xref-fn { cursor: pointer;}//长视频$(document).ready(function(){if($("#showLongArticleVideo") && $("#showLongArticleVideo").length && $("#showLongArticleVideo").length>0){mag_ajax_update({ele_id:'showLongArticleVideo',url:mag_currentQikanUrl() + "/CN/article/showLongArticleVideo.do?id="+$("#articleId").val()});}});$(document).ready(function(){window.metaData = {"journal":{"issn":"1000-5072","qiKanMingCheng_CN":"暨南学报（哲学社会科学版）","id":2,"qiKanMingCheng_EN":"Jinan Journal"},"article":{"keywordList_cn":["文化意涵","粤籍华人文学","中餐牌","中餐叙事"],"juan":"42","zhaiyao_cn":"本文将作为历史文本的美国中餐牌文献与粤籍华人自传体文学文本中的中餐叙事相比照,发现二者构成了相当有意味的互文性。就文化意涵而言,前者呈现出明显的“杂碎化”性质,而后者文学叙事中的中餐则是“真正的”广东菜,呈现出原乡的地道性;中餐牌文献文本着意于华人文化身份的外部显性呈现,文学文本中餐叙事则反映出华裔美国人身份的内部隐性建构。作为美国社会“异己”的中餐,两类文本中无论是归化其“异质性”或是张扬其“异质性”,均具有自我东方化成分,同时也都有对美国社会关于中餐和华裔的刻板印象的抵抗。起源于粤菜的美国中餐对原乡正宗性的守持、变异及至“杂碎化”美式中餐的流行,揭示出族裔身份建构、文化调适及文化同化的有趣及复杂。","endNoteUrl_en":"https://jnxb.jnu.edu.cn/skb/EN/article/getTxtFile.do?fileType=EndNote&id=6333","bibtexUrl_cn":"https://jnxb.jnu.edu.cn/skb/CN/article/getTxtFile.do?fileType=BibTeX&id=6333","abstractUrl_en":"https://jnxb.jnu.edu.cn/skb/EN/Y2020/V42/I3/10","qi":"3","id":6333,"nian":2020,"bianHao":"2020-3-10","zuoZheEn_L":"YI Shuqiong","juanUrl_en":"https://jnxb.jnu.edu.cn/skb/EN/Y2020","shouCiFaBuRiQi":"2020-04-30","qiShiYe":"10","qiUrl_cn":"https://jnxb.jnu.edu.cn/skb/CN/Y2020/V42/I3","lanMu_cn":"台港澳暨海外华文文学研究·中华文化海外传播","pdfSize":"929","zuoZhe_CN":"易淑琼","risUrl_cn":"https://jnxb.jnu.edu.cn/skb/CN/article/getTxtFile.do?fileType=Ris&id=6333","title_cn":"美国中餐牌文献与粤籍华人文学中餐叙事的文化意涵比较研究","jieShuYe":"23","keywordList_en":["Cantonese-Chinese autobiographical novel","Chinese food menu","The Chinese food narrative","The cultural implications"],"endNoteUrl_cn":"https://jnxb.jnu.edu.cn/skb/CN/article/getTxtFile.do?fileType=EndNote&id=6333","zhaiyao_en":"This article compares the Chinese food menu literature as historical texts with Chinese food narratives in the Cantonese-Chinese autobiographical texts, and draws the conclusion that two kinds of texts constitute quite meaningful intertextuality. As far as cultural implication is concerned, the former presents an obvious “Chopsuey” nature, while the Chinese food in the latter’s literary narrative is a “real” Cantonese dish, showing the authenticity of the hometown. The Chinese menu texts are intended to be an externally explicit representation of Chinese cultural identity. The Chinese food narratives in the literary text reflect the internal implicit construction of Chinese American identity. As Chinese food is the “alien” in the American society, the two types of texts, whether to naturalize its “heterogeneity” or to publicize its “heterogeneity”, inevitably have the elements of self-orientalization. At the same time, they also resist the stereotypes about Chinese food and Chinese Americans in the American society. In America, the preservation, alienation of the authenticity of Chinese food originate from Canton, and the popularity of Chinese-American dishes reflects the interest and complexity of ethnic identity construction, cultural adaptation and cultural assimilation.","bibtexUrl_en":"https://jnxb.jnu.edu.cn/skb/EN/article/getTxtFile.do?fileType=BibTeX&id=6333","abstractUrl_cn":"https://jnxb.jnu.edu.cn/skb/CN/Y2020/V42/I3/10","zuoZheCn_L":"易淑琼","juanUrl_cn":"https://jnxb.jnu.edu.cn/skb/CN/Y2020","lanMu_en":"","qiUrl_en":"https://jnxb.jnu.edu.cn/skb/EN/Y2020/V42/I3","zuoZhe_EN":"YI Shuqiong","risUrl_en":"https://jnxb.jnu.edu.cn/skb/EN/article/getTxtFile.do?fileType=Ris&id=6333","title_en":"A Comparison of the Cultural Implications between the American Chinese Food Menu Texts and the Chinese Food Narrative in Cantonese-Chinese Literature","hasPdf":"true"},"authorNotes_cn":["易淑琼,文学博士,暨南大学图书馆副研究员。"]};if(window.metaData && (!window.metaData.authorNotesCommon_cn && !window.metaData.authorNotesCorresp_cn && window.metaData.authorNotes_cn)){window.metaData.authorNotesCommon_cn = window.metaData.authorNotes_cn;}if(window.metaData && (!window.metaData.authorNotesCommon_en && !window.metaData.authorNotesCorresp_en && window.metaData.authorNotes_en)){window.metaData.authorNotesCommon_en = window.metaData.authorNotes_en;}var _nlmdtdXml = $("#article_nlmdtdXml").val();var magDir = _nlmdtdXml.replace(/\/[^\/]+$/,'');window.metaData.magDir = magDir;new mag_vue({ el: '#metaVue', //dataUrl: mag_currentQikanUrl() + '/EN/article/getRichHtmlJson.do?articleId='+$("#articleId").val(), data:window.metaData, loading:true, doTextFun:function(text){ return doDataJsonText(text); }, doAfterFun:function(selector,jsonData){doMagVueAfter(selector,jsonData);}});var pars = {attachType:'PDF',id:$("#articleId").val(),json:true};jQuery.post($("#mag-common-contextPath").val()+"/CN/article/showArticleFile.do?" + new Date().getTime(), pars, function(data){var json=null;if(data.match(/^\[json\].*/g)){json=eval("("+data.replace(/^\[json\]/g,"")+")");}if(json && json.status == 1){//有权限}else{//无权限$("#no-access-div").show();}});mag_ajax({url:mag_currentQikanUrl() + '/CN/article/getRichHtmlJson.do',data:{articleId:$("#articleId").val(),token:'11b6ca984a9e4d8c8135d5824a002493',referer:document.referrer},dataType:"json",async:"false",success:function(json){if(json.richHtmlJson && json.richHtmlJson.article){if(json.trans){var _nlmdtdXmlCN = $("#article_nlmdtdXmlCN").val();var magDirCN = _nlmdtdXmlCN.replace(/\/[^\/]+$/,'');json.richHtmlJson.magDir=magDirCN;}else{json.richHtmlJson.magDir=magDir;}new mag_vue({ el: '#bodyVue', data:json.richHtmlJson, doTextFun:function(text){ return doDataJsonText(text); }, doAfterFun:function(selector,jsonData){doMagVueAfter(selector,jsonData);}});}}});//altmetricif($.trim($("#article_doi").val())!=''){$.ajax({url:'https://api.altmetric.com/v1/doi/'+$.trim($("#article_doi").val())+'?callback=altmetric_callback',//url:'https://api.altmetric.com/v1/doi/10.1007/s13238-016-0264-7?callback=altmetric_callback',dataType:'jsonp'});}mag_rich_menu(jQuery);$(function(){ $('#autoMenu').autoMenu();})$("#autoMenu").niceScroll({cursorcolor: "#ccc", //滚动条的颜色cursoropacitymax: 0, //滚动条的透明度，从0-1 touchbehavior: false, //使光标拖动滚动像在台式电脑触摸设备 true滚动条拖动不可用 cursorwidth: "6px", //滚动条的宽度 单位默认px cursorborder: "0", // 游标边框css定义 cursorborderradius: "3px", //滚动条两头的圆角 autohidemode: true, //是否隐藏滚动条 true的时候默认不显示滚动条，当鼠标经过的时候显示滚动条 zindex: "auto", //给滚动条设置z-index值 railvalign:'defaul',railpadding: {top: 0,right: -6,left: 0,bottom: 0}, //滚动条的位置});window.autoMenuFlag=true;$("#relatedArticles").niceScroll({cursorcolor: "#ccc", //滚动条的颜色cursoropacitymax: 0, //滚动条的透明度，从0-1 touchbehavior: false, //使光标拖动滚动像在台式电脑触摸设备 true滚动条拖动不可用 cursorwidth: "6px", //滚动条的宽度 单位默认px cursorborder: "0", // 游标边框css定义 cursorborderradius: "3px", //滚动条两头的圆角 autohidemode: true, //是否隐藏滚动条 true的时候默认不显示滚动条，当鼠标经过的时候显示滚动条 zindex: "auto", //给滚动条设置z-index值 railvalign:'defaul',railpadding: {top: 0,right: -6,left: 0,bottom: 0}, //滚动条的位置});//公式序号 居右jQuery(".mag-xml-disp-formula").each(function() {var _this = jQuery(this);var _label= _this.children("label");if(typeof(_label.html())!="undefined"){_this.children("label").remove();_this.wrap("");_this.parent().parent().append(""+_label.html()+"");}});$('body').click(function(){$('.daochu_div').hide();$('.qipao').hide();})$('.qipao').click(function(event){event.stopPropagation();})/*参考文献显示隐藏*/$('.biaotijiantoush1').click(function(event){if($(this).attr('class')=='glyphicon glyphicon-triangle-top biaotijiantoush biaotijiantoush1'){$(this).parents('.mag_main_zhengwen_left_div_ckwx_table_benwenyiny').next('.mag_main_zhengwen_left_div_ckwx_table_ckwx_xiangqing').stop().slideUp();$(this).attr('class','glyphicon glyphicon-triangle-bottom biaotijiantoush biaotijiantoush1');}else if($(this).attr('class')=='glyphicon glyphicon-triangle-bottom biaotijiantoush biaotijiantoush1'){$(this).parents('.mag_main_zhengwen_left_div_ckwx_table_benwenyiny').next('.mag_main_zhengwen_left_div_ckwx_table_ckwx_xiangqing').stop().slideDown();$(this).attr('class','glyphicon glyphicon-triangle-top biaotijiantoush biaotijiantoush1');}event.stopPropagation();});//加载补充材料mag_ajax_update({ele_id:'showArticle_suppls',url:mag_currentQikanUrl() + '/CN/article/showArticleSuppls.do',data:{articleId:$("#articleId").val()}});//加载专题mag_ajax_update({ele_id:'showArticle_subjects',url:mag_currentQikanUrl() + '/CN/subject/showSubjectListByArticle.do',data:{articleId:$("#articleId").val(),forwardJsp:'showArticle'}});//渲染公式mag_mathJax();});function altmetric_callback(json){if(json && json.score){if(json.score - parseInt(json.score) > 0){$("#altmetric-score").html(parseInt(json.score)+1);}else{$("#altmetric-score").html(parseInt(json.score));}$(".main_content_center_right_duoweidu_div").css("width","25%");$("#altmetric-a").show();$("#altmetric-a").attr("href",json.details_url);}}function richClickAuthor(name){var searchSQL = "((("+mag_advSearchValReplace(name)+"[Author]) AND 2J[Journal]) AND year[Order])";mag_request({url:mag_currentQikanUrl() + '/CN/searchresult',data:{searchSQL:searchSQL}});}function richClickKeyword(keyword){var searchSQL = "((("+mag_advSearchValReplace(keyword)+"[Keyword]) AND 2J[Journal]) AND year[Order])";mag_request({url:mag_currentQikanUrl() + '/CN/searchresult',data:{searchSQL:searchSQL}});}function mag_share(){$("#bShare_more_a").click();}function loadRelatedArticles(){if($("#showRelatedArticles") && $("#showRelatedArticles").length>0){//加载过了}else{mag_loading();mag_ajax_update({ele_id:'relatedArticles-content',url:mag_currentQikanUrl() + '/CN/article/relatedArticle.do',data:{id:$("#articleId").val(), forwardJsp:'showArticle'},complete:function(){mag_layer_close();}});}}function showMetrics(){mag_window_location(mag_currentQikanUrl() + '/CN/metrics/'+$("#articleId").val());}function piaofuFn(a,fnId){var content=''+$("#mag-rich-fn-"+fnId).html()+'';piaofu(a,content);}function huoqukuanduimg(){//}function doDataJsonText(text){var str = text;//var _nlmdtdXml = $("#article_nlmdtdXml").val();//var magDir = _nlmdtdXml.replace(/\/[^\/]+$/,'');str = str.replace(/";ss += "";var shuomingTitle = "";var shuomingContent = '';if(fig.titleCn && fig.titleCn!=''){shuomingTitle = fig.titleCn;if(fig.titleContentCn && fig.titleContentCn!=''){shuomingContent += fig.titleContentCn;}}if(shuomingTitle==''){if(fig.titleEn && fig.titleEn!=''){shuomingTitle = fig.titleEn;}if(fig.titleContentEn && fig.titleContentEn!=''){shuomingContent += fig.titleContentEn;}}else{if(fig.titleEn && fig.titleEn!=''){shuomingContent += ""+fig.titleEn+"

来源：2020年第3期

《暨南学报(哲学社会科学版)》期刊编辑部

查看暨南学报(哲学社会科学版)杂志2020年第3期